Hello Xalapa!

February 15, 2017 / edebock / 3 Comments

We first woke up at 4 o’clock this morning because the house was shaking and the windows rattling. The 4.4 magnitude earthquake with its epicentre beneath the ocean less than 150 km east of here, was not something I had expected to experience during our stay in Mexico. After living for a year in Japan where the earth moves almost every other week, we’re pretty blasé about such things though and soon went back to sleep.

Later in the morning, we took a 20 minute bus ride into Xalapa (pronounced Halapa), a city of approximately 400 000 people that is the capital city of the Mexican state of Veracruz. Xalapa is also known as a centre of arts and culture.

We enjoyed strolling around the central part of the city including Parque Jaurez, one of the city’s most popular attractions. The park, located next to the provincial government building, is home to an amazing dragon play structure; it’s tongue a two sided slide, its body a climbing wall and its tail a rope climbing apparatus. I could imagine my five grandchildren having a blast playing on it.

We also enjoyed the Greek inspired statues of the four muses, especially this one!

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Across the street from the government building stands the impressive Xalapa cathedral, beautiful both inside and out.

As we walked the nearby streets stopping into a few little shops, we joked that this one must be part of the empire owned by the newly elected president of a certain country to the north!

Clearly it was a fun filled morning! After a fabulous lunch in one of Xalapa’s finest restaurants, we returned to Coatepec but we’ll be back in Xalapa on Friday evening to hear the city’s symphony orchestra in concert.

To Xico for lunch

February 13, 2017 / edebock / 1 Comment

After starting my day with a zumba class, I was ready for a hearty lunch. We caught a taxi in Coatepec and headed for Xico, a smaller town about 9 km away. Here’s the sight that greeted my eye as I stepped out of the car!

Turning around, we crossed the street and headed down the newly restored pedestrian avenue lined with colourful homes and shops. It felt a bit like a step back in time.

Toward the end, road construction was still underway.

The restaurant that was our destination was located near the end of the street. Fortunately, shortly after we arrived, it was time for the construction crew to take their afternoon siesta. The machines shut down and the workers gathered in the shade across the street from where we sat in the sunshine on the outdoor patio. Again, I had to remind myself that it’s the middle of February!

There’s very little English in use in this part of Mexico. Richard M and Colleen function fairly well in Spanish and are able to help us order from the Spanish only menus. There have been a couple of surprises, but they’ve both turned out rather well! On our first morning in Coatepec we went out for breakfast. I thought I’d ordered an omelette, but it was actually fried eggs in a very tasty sauce. Today, I was expecting a shrimp sandwich, but it turned out to be an absolutely delicious omelette! If the surprises continue to be this yummy, I hope there are a few more of them!

Welcome to Coatepec!

February 12, 2017 / edebock / 2 Comments

great-wall When we climbed the Great Wall of China with fellow Liaoning Normal University English teacher, Richard M, and his wife, Colleen, almost four years ago, we had no idea that someday we’d walk the streets of Coatepec, Mexico with them! Richard and Colleen are now enjoying retirement in this colourful town of approximately 50 000 people located about 300 km east of Mexico City. We arrived the day before yesterday and after talking until almost one o’clock in the morning, decided that we didn’t have to do all our catching up in one night!

After being out and about exploring Coatepec yesterday and then again today, we can easily see why Richard and Colleen love it here! Dressed in shorts and t-shirts, I have to keep reminding myself that it’s still February, but climate isn’t the only reason to like this place.

The people are warm, friendly and very welcoming; the food is fresh and delicious; and the architecture is gorgeous. A beautiful park at the centre of town is a vibrant gathering place.

Come take a look around with me…

Packing light

October 21, 2016October 23, 2016 / edebock / 7 Comments

Long before airlines started charging for checked baggage, Richard and I carried less luggage than most travellers. On our recent 17 day trip to Nova Scotia, we shared one large suitcase. Our carry-ons included a backpack which doubled as a day pack when we went hiking, my computer bag and my purse.

The first questions to ask yourself when packing for any trip include: Where am I going? What kind of weather will I likely encounter? and What is the purpose of my trip?

Average daytime temperatures in Nova Scotia in October tend to be mild, ranging between 12 and 15ºC (54 to 58ºF) while nights are cool, between 3 and 9ºC (38 to 48ºF). Though we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary the first weekend we were there and planned to dine at one of Halifax’s finest restaurants, most of our vacation would be spent visiting friends, sightseeing and hiking. We packed accordingly.

So, what was in my half of that one large suitcase?

8 tops – 2 long sleeved, 4 three quarter sleeved, 2 short sleeved – mostly neutral colours – most were casual, but if you look closely you’ll see my black lace and my animal print, both suitable for dressier occasions

5 pairs of pants – 2 blue jeans, 1 green jeans, 1 lightweight khaki pants and one black dress pants

Just think of all the combinations that could be created with those 13 items! To these basics, I added

1 cardigan that could coordinate with many of the items shown above
3 camis for layering – 1 black, 1 white, 1 khaki
1 dress for that special anniversary dinner
12 panties and 12 pairs of socks – I didn’t actually need that many, but I wasn’t sure exactly when we’d have access to laundry facilities (we did laundry once on the trip)
3 bras – those I wash by hand so 2 really would have been enough
2 pantyhose and 2 knee high hose – again, more than I needed, but they don’t take up any space and I like to have extras in case I snag them
4 pairs of pyjamas
1 skimpy negligee – it was our anniversary, after all!
1 short, very lightweight kimono
1 pair of cozy slipper socks
1 swimsuit which didn’t come out of the suitcase, but I rarely travel without one
1 ball cap for hiking and walking in the sun

1 toque which I didn’t actually wear until we arrived back in snowy Alberta
1 scarf
1 hoodie and 1 lightweight jacket that could be worn individually or layered for extra warmth

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3 pairs of shoes – I wore my Merrell walking/hiking shoes on the plane and the other 2 pairs fit into the outside pocket of our suitcase along with Richard’s dress shoes – I always stuff socks or other small items inside shoes when I pack them to save space and to help them keep their shape.

This list actually includes what I wore as well as the change of clothes that was in the backpack in case our suitcase didn’t make it to our destination at the same time as we did. In addition to clothing, my side of the suitcase also contained toiletries, makeup, medications, sunscreen, jewelry (packed in a hard shell eyeglass case), a travel size blow dryer, a straightening iron and a travel alarm clock.

What about you? Do you travel light? What can’t you leave home without?

Meat Cove… at the end of the road

October 17, 2016October 26, 2016 / edebock / Leave a comment

When I was young, my father’s desire to get away from it all often led us to the end of little out of the way roads in our home province of British Columbia. As a child, I didn’t always appreciate those trips to nowhere, but they eventually bred in me a yearning to take the road less traveled and see what’s at its end.

On our first weekend in Halifax, a gentleman told us that if we were going to drive the Cabot Trail, we should go into Cape North and then take the little side road to Meat Cove. Looking at the map, I discovered that Meat Cove is the northernmost community in Nova Scotia. A lone gravel road leads to a tiny dot on the map surrounded by nothing but blank space. Of course, we’d have to go!

As is often the case, the journey was as interesting as the destination. Along the way, we missed a turn and first ended up at another small fishing village, picturesque Cape St Lawrence.

Back on the right road, the views were spectacular.

Meat Cove, with a population of 65 people, is a remote fishing village. Apparently, it takes it’s unusual name from the fact that in days gone by, boats would stop there to reload with wild meat. There isn’t actually a lot there; just a dozen or so houses scattered around the area, a guest lodge, a tiny campground clinging to the cliff top high above the cove itself and a small community centre that also serves as a restaurant and an internet access site.

As I looked down on the crystal clear water, I was glad that we’d taken the time to drive to the end of the road and when I called my 93 year old father to tell him about it, I could hear the pride in his voice!

Colourful Cabot Trail

October 15, 2016October 15, 2016 / edebock / 7 Comments

Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail is a scenic roadway measuring 298 km in length that forms a loop around the northern part of Cape Breton Island and passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Prior to this trip, we had driven the Cabot Trail twice before, both times doing the entire loop in one day.

The first time was in 1991. We were traveling with our young children and had the privilege of doing the drive with a colleague who is a native Cape Breton Islander. He was home on summer vacation and acted as our guide for the day. It was bright and sunny and we were awed by the beauty that surrounded us. Stops along the way to enjoy the views, eat a picnic lunch and take a swim made it a long, but very memorable day.

Our second trip around the trail seven years ago was somewhat disappointing. It poured rain much of the way and we crossed the northern highlands in dense fog barely able to see the road let alone anything else! We made very few stops.

This time we spent three days on the trail! We stopped at many viewpoints, or lookoffs as they’re known in Nova Scotia, to soak in the beauty and take a multitude of photos.

That’s the little Hyundai Accent rental that’s been our wheels for this entire trip.

We enjoyed a traditional community breakfast with the locals at the Southwest Margaree Parish Hall and spent a couple of evening hours listening to local musicians in a Cheticamp pub.

We walked rocky beaches

and sandy ones.

We hiked the Skyline Trail and explored out of the way places like this one near Cheticamp where we stopped to find a geocache.

We took side roads to places like Mary Ann Falls

and everywhere we went, we marvelled at the amazing colours.

Yes, the Cabot Trail is beautiful anytime of year, but in autumn it’s absolutely spectacular!

Hiking the Highlands

October 14, 2016October 15, 2016 / edebock / 1 Comment

Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Highlands National Park boasts more than 20 trails ranging from short easy walks to spectacular hiking expeditions. We chose one of the most popular, the dramatic Skyline Trail on the western side of the Cabot Trail, for Wednesday’s hike.

As we approached the trailhead, we could see the tiny silhouettes of hikers against the skyline on the ridge high above us. Soon we would join them!

The Skyline Trail offers two options. Many choose to stay on the well groomed path that takes them directly out to the headland cliff overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This out and back route is 7.5 km long. We chose the longer 9.2 km loop.

The back side of the loop, the road less traveled, crosses a high plateau. The trail is rougher and some sections were muddy as a result of the horrendous storm that swept across Cape Breton two days earlier.

Once we reached the far side of the plateau, the views were gorgeous.

Sometimes we just had to sit and soak them in.

Nothing prepared us for the spectacular views from the headland, however! There, a wooden boardwalk and a series of steps took us down the middle of the cliff. The open ocean was far below to our right and a deep ravine to our left. We watched eagles soar below us and vehicles winding their way along the Cabot Trail looked minuscule.

Strategically placed by Parks Canada so that it isn’t visible from the highway below, the boardwalk protects the fragile headland plants from trampling and also gave me a sense of security as I crossed the ridge.

Once we tore ourselves away from the the amazing vistas spread out before us, the most used and best maintained portion of the trail took us back to the parking lot. There was a small change in elevation along this portion, but it was very gradual.

Is it any wonder that I’m overwhelmed by the beauty of Nova Scotia?

Mahone Bay… a little piece of paradise

October 8, 2016October 9, 2016 / edebock / 6 Comments

Though I love to travel, life is really about people, not places. If the weather had been horrible and the view boring, our time with the Hs would still have been wonderful! The relationship between our two families goes back 77 years and we felt so welcome. Add to that the indescribable beauty of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia and the most amazing fall weather imaginable and I think we’ve been in paradise for the past few days!

The Hs live at Indian Point, a tiny community on the shore of Mahone Bay about 7 km from the town itself which is best known for the three churches located along the edge of the bay.

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Every morning, we woke up to views like this one.

Words aren’t adequate to describe the beauty that surrounded us, so I’m simply going to share a few photos. Several of them were taken from the water while we were out on Lindy H’s boat.

This is Ronnie and Myrna H’s house where we spent lots of time visiting.

Peggy’s Cove

October 6, 2016October 6, 2016 / edebock / 2 Comments

Peggy’s Cove, a quaint fishing village on the eastern shore of St Margaret’s Bay, about 45 km from Halifax, Nova Scotia, is probably one of the best known and most visited locations in Canada. Though we’d been there twice before, we couldn’t resist stopping at this picturesque spot again as we made our way from Halifax to our next destination at Mahone Bay.

The iconic lighthouse dominates the rocky point overlooking the crashing waves below.

Though it’s the lighthouse that attracts the most tourist attention, I love walking around the village photographing the colourful boats and the houses that cling to the rocks around the cove.

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Also of interest is the Fisherman’s Monument carved into a 30 metre granite outcropping by artist, William Edward deGarthe, who emigrated to Canada from Finland in 1926 and settled in Peggy’s Cove in 1955. The sculpture depicts 32 fishermen, their wives and children, a guardian angel with wings outspread, and the legendary Peggy of Peggy’s Cove.

Halifax Seaport

October 6, 2016 / edebock / Leave a comment

We spent most of our weekend in Halifax exploring the harbour area. Our first stop was the newly renovated Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, Canada’s last standing ocean immigration terminal. It was here that a great many of the immigrants who arrived in our country between 1928 and 1971 first stepped onto Canadian soil. As well as offering a fascinating step into the past to experience what it was like to immigrate through Pier 21, the museum showcases the vast contributions that newcomers have made to Canada’s culture, economy and way of life. I was particularly touched by the wall of testimonies written by previous visitors to the museum. Here are just a few of them.

As we explored the Halifax Seaport, a vibrant waterfront area and a popular destination for both locals and tourists, we passed “The Emigrant”, a beautiful bronze and marble monument depicting an emigrant leaving his home country to start a new life in Canada. The piece was designed, sculpted and donated by artist, Armando Barbon, himself an immigrant who wanted to say thank you to his adopted country.

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In addition to being the place where many new Canadians first stepped onto our shore, the Halifax harbour was also the location where thousands of First World War soldiers last stood on Canadian soil. A trail of footprints burned into the wooden boardwalk traces the path of the long-gone fighters to a memorial arch bearing the words “The Last Steps”.

The Seaport is also home to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. There, I found the exhibit devoted to the 1917 Halifax Explosion most interesting. On that darkest day in Halifax’s history, at 9:06 a.m. on December 6, a dreadful miscommunication between two ships in the harbour resulted in an explosion of cataclysmic proportions. 2,000 people were killed and 9,000 more injured. It was the largest man-made explosion in history prior to the first nuclear blast.

In addition to exploring local history, I loved just walking the boardwalk and enjoying the harbour sights.