Is thrifting ethical or not?

Logo by SamIf you’ve been following my blog for long, you know that many of my clothes come from second-hand stores, not because I can’t afford to buy new, but because I love thrifting and because one of my fashion goals is to be a more ethical shopper. The benefits of second-hand fashion are undeniable. Instead of going to the landfill, clothing that is no longer wanted finds new life in someone else’s closet. Textiles are reused and the harmful environmental impacts that result from producing new garments are reduced. Sadly, however, thrifting is not without ethical concerns.

One of the most common criticisms of thrift store shopping is related to supply and demand. If people like me, who can afford to buy our clothes new, instead choose to shop second-hand, will there be enough for those those in need? While this fear of “stealing from the poor” may be a good-hearted concern, it doesn’t accurately portray the situation. In reality, because we are such an affluent society, most second-hand stores receive far more in donations than they can possibly sell. The sad reality of thrifting is that while some of the clothes that go unsold are donated to women’s shelters and other charitable organizations, a large percentage end up in landfills or are shipped to third world countries.

While there is little danger of second-hand stores not having enough stock to meet the needs of low-income customers, thrifting as a fashion choice among the more well-to-do has led to a different problem. The “gentrification” of thrift stores, as this trend has become known, has led to some second-hand stores raising their prices making it more difficult for those who are in need to access clothing that they can afford. I do the vast majority of my thrift store shopping at two small shops in my local area where prices have been kept very low, but I have definitely noticed an increase in prices in the larger city stores that I visit occasionally. For example, three of the thrifted items that I bought in the past year were purchased in city second-hand stores for between $7.00 and $14.99. They would have cost $2.50 each at one of the shops in our small rural community.

The most valid criticism of thrift store shopping, however, is not directed at those of us who purchase clothing to add to or fill gaps in our own wardrobes. It zeroes in on those who frequently buy far more than they can reasonably use so that they can feature their “hauls” on TikTok and YouTube and on those entrepreneurial thrifters who buy quality items at thrift store prices and then resell them for more on popular apps like thredUp. For some, thrifting has become a lucrative business, but how ethical is it to buy donated items at not for profit shops like Goodwill and use them to turn a profit?

So, the question remains: Is thrifting truly an ethical way to shop or not? Personally, I think it is, especially if you live in an area where there is a high volume of second-hand clothing available. Thrifting is the recycling of the fashion world, but being an ethical thrifter requires mindfulness and discipline. It requires shopping with your practical needs in mind and not falling into the trap of overconsumption simply because the prices are so low. As a conscious shopper, you might also ask how you can strengthen or support the industry. This might look like volunteering your time and/or donating your own gently worn clothes to continue the cycle.

More than your appearance

Logo by SamI’ve written about today’s topic before, but the beginning of a new year seems to be a good time to revisit it. As women, we are constantly bombarded by air brushed images promising us thinner bodies, younger looking skin, flawless complexions, lusher lashes, smoother lips, and glossy nails. How easy it is to forget that these are simply advertisements aimed at selling products. For many, they become the goal, the standard of beauty, and they go to great lengths to try to attain it. But do these things truly make us beautiful? What about clothes? Does beauty come from wearing the right brands and the latest trends? I think not!

A nasty, mean-spirited woman dressed in designer clothes and made up impeccably, is still mean and nasty. Unless something happens to transform her from the inside out, that ill-tempered spirit will soon become evident and we will see through her attractive appearance.

The Bible tells us  Your beauty should not come from outward adornment, such as elaborate hairstyles and the wearing of gold jewelry or fine clothes. Rather, it should be that of your inner self, the unfading beauty of a gentle and quiet spirit.” 1 Peter 3:3-4a

Does this mean that a woman shouldn’t concern herself with style, dress in fine clothes, wear elaborate jewelry or use make-up. Absolutely not! It simply says that her true beauty shouldn’t depend on these things. It ought to come from within.

Stephanie Lahart, inspirational author of Overcoming Life’s Obstacles, puts it this way:  “Her outer beauty is just a bonus, but it is her inner beauty that’s most captivating. She’s loving, caring, kindhearted, empathetic, and genuine. She’s comfortable in her own skin, therefore, she’s able to compliment, celebrate, and build up others around her. She’s a quality woman with a strong sense of self! She doesn’t need the spotlight, because she is the light wherever she goes. Smart, confident, ambitious, and fearless… Beautifully created from the inside out.”

Being beautiful on the inside is about how you treat other people, but it’s also about how you nurture yourself. What do you tell yourself when you look in the mirror? Instead of berating yourself for your physical flaws (we all have them!) try acknowledging something positive about yourself, something that you’re proud of, something that makes you feel good. Appreciate your uniqueness. Don’t try to hide your authentic self or be someone you’re not. As much as possible, surround yourself with positive people who encourage you to be the best that you can be. Choose role models, not for their outward appearance, but for who they are on the inside. And finally, practice gratitude.

In 2024, let’s have fun with fashion, but let’s focus on being more than just our appearance!

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Sixteen years of blogging!

I published my very first blog post sixteen years ago today! It was also the shortest post I’ve ever written; a brief message announcing that hubby and I had just accepted positions teaching conversational English in Japan. The blog was meant to share that year-long adventure with friends, family and anyone else who might be interested. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that it would still be alive and well sixteen years later!

The title, Following Augustine, no longer fits the blog as well as it did in those early days, but since it’s what I’ve been known as in the blogosphere for more than a decade and a half, I hesitate to consider changing it. You can read about why I originally chose the title here.

Though I probably already had neuroendocrine cancer (NETS) when the blog was born, I didn’t know about it until several years later. When I finally received a correct diagnosis, blogging became a helpful way to process what was happening and to share the journey with friends and family. I also use the blog to raise awareness of NETS. I’m sure that this will continue to happen as I’ve recently become a member of a newly formed Advocacy Advisory Board that will report to the board of directors of the Canadian Neuroendocrine Tumour Society (CNETS).

When I started the blog, writing about fashion was the farthest thing from my mind. Several years ago, however, I starting following several fashion blogs and began to develop a greater interest in the topic. It was then that I decided to add the weekly Fashion Friday feature. At times, I find it a challenge to come up with a new fashion related topic every week, but it’s been a great way to connect with other women and to ensure that I post something at least once a week. Fashion Friday has a fairly small, but loyal following of interested readers, so I as long as I can continue to think of engaging content, I plan to keep the feature going.

As an avid reader, it was my passion for books that prompted me to add the latest feature to the blog, a monthly book review that first appeared at the beginning of February this year.

I refer to Following Augustine as a lifestyle, travel, and fashion blog, but in recent years, there hasn’t been as much travel content as I would have liked. First, the pandemic and then a number of other health issues, both mine and hubby’s, have limited our ability to spend as much time away from home as we would like, but our brand new ten year passports arrived in yesterday’s mail and we hope to be able to put them to good use in the future. If that happens, the blog will once again chronicle our wanderings.

Following Augustine will probably continue to undergo changes from time to time, but at this point, I don’t see it coming to an end anytime soon. Over the past sixteen years, I’ve published over 1400 posts and I expect that I’ll continue adding to that number until I’m no longer able!

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Wearing the unexpected shoe

Logo by SamSince well-known stylist and wardrobe consultant, Allison Bornstein, posted this video on TikTok earlier this year, the idea of “choosing the wrong shoe”, as she calls it, has gained popularity in fashion circles. The idea isn’t actually new; Allison just gave it a name. Personally, I would call it “wearing the unexpected shoe”.

Do you remember when no one would have considered wearing sneakers with a dress? Then, women started doing the unexpected and in time, it became accepted. But what about combat boots or chunky loafers with a dress or kitten heels with sweat pants? As Bornstein points out in the video, choosing the wrong or unexpected shoe can be an intentional choice that personalizes a look and makes it more interesting. The Germans even have a word for it. Stilbruch (literal translation: style break) is an intentional breach of style or a combination of clashing styles.

Wearing the unexpected shoe isn’t about deliberately looking ugly or weird. It’s about adding an element of surprise instead of wearing what everyone else would wear and it’s an opportunity to use what you already have in your wardrobe in a new and different way.

To illustrate, I pulled together a simple outfit from my closet; one that I’ve never worn before. It’s not the most flattering because this much black close to my face doesn’t work well with my complexion, but it’s the shoes that I want you to focus on today. Hopefully you can’t see the goosebumps on my legs. It was 0ºC (32ºF) when we took these pictures! It’s easier to get good photos outdoors, so hubby bundled up and I tried not to shiver! 

Let’s begin with an expected shoe… a classic black pump with a kitten heel. I’ve had these shoes for many years, but haven’t worn them for a long time. Now that kitten heels are back in style, I think that’s about to change. 

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One of the next shoes is a bit more unexpected than the other. 

Yes, I do have the same shoes in two different colours! It was a buy one, get one half price sale many years ago. Though it was the red pair that caught my eye at the time, I’ve actually worn the black ones more often. Now that wearing the wrong or unexpected shoe is on-trend, perhaps I should reach for the red ones more often. They add an interesting pop of colour to an otherwise neutral outfit. 

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This time, we’re back to black, but a bootie instead of shoes. Personally, I’m not as fond of this look, but I think it would work better with a more stylish looking bootie. Perhaps something like this. 

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The final look is definitely an unexpected one, but I like it! Of course, whether I chose this look would depend on where I was going. If I was wearing this outfit to a funeral, for example, I would choose one of the first two shoes shown above. This pair definitely takes the outfit’s formal look down a notch or two. 

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What do you think? Do you ever wear an unexpected or “wrong” shoe? Which of these looks do you prefer? 

 

Not exactly a fashion post

Life has been a bit crazy lately between our usual fall/winter activities starting up again and numerous medical appointments for both hubby and I. More about that in the future when we have a better idea what’s going on, but for now, suffice to say that it’s been a bit difficult to focus on something as comparatively trivial as fashion. I will, however, share what I wore yesterday for what was probably our final hike of the year.

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I don’t usually wear graphic t-shirts nor do I often wear black close to my face, but this particular tee has significant meaning to me and I really wasn’t worried about what I looked like out on the trail! 

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The logo, known as The Creator’s Path, was created by Indigenous artist, Don Monkman, for Indian Life Ministries, an organization that I do volunteer work for that seeks to reach Native people across Canada and the United States with the good news of the gospel. If you look closely, you’ll see the cross surrounded by Christ wearing the crown of thorns, the two thieves on either side of Him, His nail pierced hands, the people who rejected Him piercing His side, and those who accepted His sacrifice kneeling in prayer. All of this is held within a circle representing creation. 

Anyway, back to our hike. It was an absolutely beautiful day, one of the last few in the forecast before winter is expected to hit early next week. We spent a couple of hours exploring one of our favourite hiking areas, Willow Creek Coulee, located near the village of Donalda, Alberta. With beautiful sunshine and a temperature of 23ºC (73ºF), it was hard to believe that snow and sub-zero temperatures might be just around the corner! 

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In addition to the t-shirt described above, I wore an older pair of chinos, my trusty Merrell hiking shoes, and a hat to shade my eyes from the sun. There are few things that I love more than the peace and quiet of nature. For awhile, I even forgot all about the headache that I’ve had for the past two weeks! 

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On the way back to the vehicle, we almost decided to do a bit of international travel, but we didn’t have our passports with us.

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Just kidding! 😂 That’s actually a new sign that has appeared on the fence of a property near the trailhead since the last time we hiked the coulee. The land is held by a member of a movement known as  Freemen on the Land, a group who believe that they can declare themselves independent of the government and any laws to which they have not consented. It takes all kinds, I guess! 

Not promising, but I’ll try to have a more conventional fashion post for you next week! 

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The dark side of sequins and synthetics

Logo by SamI’ve never been one to wear sequins or glitter. They’re a bit too flashy for me, but I was alarmed when I recently read how devastating they are for the environment. Made of plastic with a shiny metallic coating, they’re non-biodegradable and will sit in the landfill for hundreds of years, possibly shedding harmful micro plastics into the soil.

As often happens, reading that fact led me down a number of other rabbit trails. I discovered that ancient sequins, made of gold, have been unearthed in archeological sites from Pakistan to Egypt including heaps of them scattered in King Tut’s tomb and sewn in flower shapes on his ceremonial robe. I also learned about modern day attempts to produce sequins that are biodegradable. So far, however, those haven’t been able to withstand heat and moisture making them unsuitable for use on clothing. Perhaps someday though.

All of this led me to wonder about the biodegradability of the kinds of fabric that we commonly wear. Here’s what I learned about how long it takes for different fibres to decompose:

Cotton:  1 week to 5 months. Denim, which is a much hardier cotton, takes 10 to 12 months.

Linen:  as little as 2 weeks

Hemp:  2 weeks

Wool:  3 to 4 months

Bamboo:  4 to 6 months

Silk:  1 to 4 years

Nylon:  30 to 40 years

Polyester:  20 to 200 years

Spandex:  up to 200 years

Acrylic:  200 years

Clearly, natural fabrics are better for the environment. Not only do they decompose much more quickly, but they also require much less processing to turn them into fabric in the first place. Did you know that they’re also better for you? Natural fibres are soft, strong, breathable, and don’t irritate sensitive skin.

So, am I planning to go all-natural and stop wearing synthetic fabrics? Probably not. That would be pretty difficult to do, but as one who wants to shop ethically, one thing I will continue to do is to shop second-hand and keep those synthetic fabrics out of the landfill longer. And I probably won’t be wearing any sequins!

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The impact of the Barbie movie on fashion

Screenshot 2023-08-14 at 11.58.52 AMEver since the Barbie movie, featuring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling, was released last month, women and girls of every age (and men too) have been flocking to the theatres dressed in pink. Pink is definitely having a big moment in the fashion world!

Historically, pink was just another colour worn by men and women alike and, in many parts of the world, it still is. In North America, however, it’s been considered a feminine colour since the 1920s when US department stores arbitrarily made the decision that blue would be for boys and pink for girls. Later came an era when pink was thought to be too girly. Women who loved pink weren’t taken seriously and boys who wore pink were accused of being gay. All those stereotypes have been shattered by the Barbie movie phenomenon.

Living where I do, two hours from a major shopping mall, I haven’t been in a clothing store for quite awhile, but a quick look at a few of my favourite Canadian retailers online turned up an amazing array of pink; every shade of pink imaginable, but especially Barbie’s iconic hot pink.

There were casual clothes, of course, like this tank top and wide-legged linen cargo pants from Reitmans.

But also dressier pieces like this satin wrap skirt from Ricki’s.

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And even business appropriate suits and blazers like these from Cleo and Ricki’s.

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I can imagine Barbie wearing a bright pink trench coat, can’t you? This one’s from Reitmans.

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The only pink in my wardrobe is a couple of golf shirts and special bright pink hoodie that I’ve had for many years, but if I was in the market for new walking shoes, I’d definitely consider these Asics from the Marks website!

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But, back to the Barbie movie. I haven’t seen it myself and I don’t know that I will, but I did see a trailer that looked like it might be fun. What is it though that is drawing huge crowds to a movie about a doll having an existential crisis and venturing into the real world? Certainly one of the things driving the phenomenon is nostalgia. Women who grew up playing with Barbie can relive a part of their childhood and in many cases, share the experience with their daughters and granddaughters.

I never had a Barbie doll. I was 6 when Mattel officially introduced her to the world on March 9, 1959. Perhaps my mother was a woman before her time, but from the beginning, she didn’t like the unrealistic beauty standards presented by the doll. About that time, she and my father made a trip to the States. There, she bought my little sister a Vogue Ginny doll and me a Jan. Compared to Barbie, with her ridiculously minuscule waist, Jan had some meat on her bones and was definitely more pleasing to my mother’s sensibilities. Somewhat later, my sister and I both received a Tammy doll for Christmas. Tammy was created by the Ideal Toy Company and made her debut in 1962. She was portrayed as an American teenager with a “girl next door” image. Although I didn’t have a Barbie, I did have her younger sister, Skipper, and she was probably my favourite of the three.

Perhaps for girls and women who did grow up with Barbie, her iconic pink evokes not only nostalgia, but a sense of fun and escape to a time when life was more carefree and joyful. That would certainly explain the crowds dressed in pink lining up at the box offices and the influx of pink in clothing stores this summer!

What about you? Did you play with Barbie? Have you seen the movie? If so, did you dress in pink? I’d love to know your thoughts on the movie, the hoopla surrounding it, or the colour pink in general.

Cropped pants, cuffs, and the psychology of fashion

Logo by SamI’ve always been very particular about the length of my pants. From the time I was a child, I’ve loved wearing capri pants, or pedal pushers as we called them way back then. On the other hand, I’ve never liked wearing cropped pants. They look great on other women, but they feel all wrong on me.

The difference between capris and crops is simply a matter of a few inches. Capris end at the calf and crops fall 2 to 4 inches above the ankle bone. They’re a great way to show off your ankles, cute shoes or booties, or even a fun pair of socks, but I just can’t convince myself to wear them.

Why is that? Why such an aversion to something that is admittedly stylish and cute? I think it has to do with the fact that I have long legs and back in the day when I was young and terribly self-conscious, I often had trouble finding pants that were long enough. The thought of being mocked for wearing pants that were too short horrified me. Pedal pushers were intentionally short. Everyone knew that. I could wear them and fit in, but cropped pants were not a thing back then.

This summer, I’ve discovered something odd. I have 3 pairs of summer pants that are designed to be worn either full length or with the cuffs rolled up which essentially makes them the same length as cropped pants. Those, I love wearing! Again, I have to ask myself why and again, I go back to my early memories of growing up on the waterfront. When we played on the beach and waded in the tidal pools, it was natural to roll up our cuffs to keep them dry. Now, when I wear my cuffs rolled up, that carefree feeling of childhood play is what comes to mind!

Amazingly, how we dressed as a child or the fears that we might have had back then about not fitting in can affect the way we dress and shop for clothing decades later. Can you think of any examples from your own life?

Book Club: The Next Chapter

Logo by SamLast Sunday evening, hubby and I went out for dinner and a movie. Like the original film, Book Club: The Next Chapter is hardly Shakespearean drama, but sometimes we just want to be entertained. What could be better for that purpose than something silly and fun starring four stellar actresses of our generation – Jane Fonda, Diane Keaton, Candice Bergen and Mary Steenburgen?

As much as I enjoyed the antics of four lifelong friends on a late-in-life bachelorette trip to Italy, it was their wardrobes that captured my attention. Fashion plays a key role in the movie, the clothes reflecting the fact that these women in their 70s and 80s are vibrant, sexy, and full of life.

In case you didn’t see the first movie, let me introduce the characters with this photo from the 2018 rom com.

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On the left, Diane Keaton plays Diane, a widow. Yes, she kept her own name as well as her quirky fashion sense. And look at that… she’s wearing a jean jacket! If you read my last post, you’ll know that some people are of the opinion that a woman over 40 should never be seen in a jean jacket. Candice Bergen plays Sharon, a self-deprecating judge who has been divorced for many years. Vivian, a flamboyant hotel magnate, is played by Jane Fonda and Carol, a successfully married restauranteur is played by Mary Steenburgen.

In the sequel which takes place immediately after pandemic restrictions are lifted, Judge Sharon has retired, Carol’s restaurant has closed, and Vivian, who reconnected with an old beau in the first movie, is engaged. At their first in-person get together after the shutdown, they decide to fulfill a long-time dream and travel to Italy together.

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During their romp through Rome, Vivian wears a Bride to Be sash and veil over her leopard print blouse and the foursome visit a bridal salon where she tries on multiple wedding dresses. I wish I could show you an actual photo of 85-year-old Fonda rocking this amazing gown! She was as stunning as any young bride to be.

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Losing their luggage (but thankfully not the wedding dress) meant shopping and an opportunity to push the envelope and make their looks a bit more daring, more colourful and exuberant. Steenburgen, the youngster in the crowd at 70, looks fabulous in a daringly low cut red gown, but again, I couldn’t find a photo, so you’ll have to watch the movie to see that one.

Costume designer Stefano De Nardis clearly had fun with this movie. “To me, ‘age appropriate’ means being able to have a personal style and let it out through clothing. I believe more in ‘personality appropriate,’ than ‘age appropriate.’” he says.

The plot might be somewhat thin, but in our ageist, youth-obsessed culture, the message that life is not over when we hit 60, 70, or even 80 is an important one. Senior women (and men) are still very much alive, engaged, and an important part of society. So, why not dress like it?

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Wear what makes you comfortable

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First of all, a big thank you to everyone who responded to last Friday’s post, both here on the blog and on Facebook! Clearly, the consensus is that the top with the unusual neckline is not weird.

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I especially appreciated those readers who reminded me that what matters most is whether or not I’m comfortable wearing it. That leads me to today’s topic. I recently read another one of those stupid articles about what older women should or should not wear. Believe it or not, this one actually said that “a woman over 40 should never be caught in a jean jacket.” Really? What absolute balderdash! A jean jacket is a classic fashion staple that never goes out of style. If you’re comfortable wearing one at 101, why in the world wouldn’t you?

Created in the United States in about 1880 by Levi Strauss, it was originally designed as a durable, heavy-duty jacket to be worn by cowboys, miners, and railroad workers. Over time, however, the jean jacket has become a wardrobe staple for both men and women of all ages.

I have two of them, both thrifted several years ago. 

The one on the left is a very traditional style from Gap while the other, from Jones New York, is a bit dressier looking.

I love the versatility of a jean jacket. You’ve seen me wearing one with a dress both here and here, but they can, of course, be much more casual. You’ve also seen me in a “Canadian tuxedo” here.

I wore this outfit to church on Sunday. It fits my style adjectives… classy, casual, comfortable, confident, and authentic. 

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I paired the Jones New York jacket with white jeans, a sleeveless top, and sandals. It wasn’t until I looked at the pictures that I realized that everything except my accessories was thrifted! According to someone, I’m 30 years too old to be wearing a jean jacket, but as some of you reminded me, we ought to wear what we’re comfortable in and I’m definitely comfortable in a jean jacket!