Yukyu, merit pay and stubbornness

According to our contract, we’re entitled to five yukyu, days off that can be used as either sick days or personal leave days.  Once these are used up, any additional absences, whether for sickness or any other reason, are treated as time off without pay.

In addition to our monthly salary, we’re also entitled to 5000 yen (approximately $50) merit pay for each month in which we are not late for school, do not leave early, complete the myriad of required paperwork on time, do not violate the working regulations in any way and do not take any unscheduled yukyu.  In other words, if we are sick, it not only costs us one of our five yukyu days but also our merit pay for that month!  I know that $50 will never make or break us but I consider that unduly harsh.

I’m a stubborn woman.  I’ve had a difficult time convincing some people of that but Richard would attest to the fact!  He says I come by it honestly; that I inherited the trait from my mother and my aunt.  I’m okay with that.  In fact, I thank them for that legacy.  I don’t see anything wrong with a woman having a bit of backbone as long as she knows when to bend.

This issue of sickness and yukyu is one area where I’m not willing to bend!  I have absolutely no voice today.  When the sore throat of the past few days disappeared, it took my voice with it!  Regardless of what shape it’s in tomorrow, I intend to be in school.  I plan to save my precious yukyu days for interesting things like climbing Mt. Fuji and visiting with Matt & Robin while they’re here.  I’m not willing to spend even one of them on laryngitis nor am I willing to give up my merit pay, especially since I’ve already done all the required paperwork this month and quite a bit of next month’s.

While laryngitis is definitely a teacher’s curse, if I were at home in Canada, it really wouldn’t be a problem.  During my very first year of teaching, my doctor at the time introduced me to a vile smelling potion known as Friar’s Balsam.  When it’s added to boiling water and the fumes are inhaled, the voice is magically restored.  I know it sounds hokey but it works!  Unfortunately, I didn’t think to bring any with us and finding such a thing here when all I know is the brand name and not what it actually contains, would be virtually impossible.  Someone at church this morning recommended that I try Vicks VapoRub which is readily available here.  I haven’t used it since I was a child but I picked some up on the way home and will try that along with the Halls lozenges which are mentholated and seem to help.  I’m also drinking tea with honey.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated!

The darker side

On her way to school last Saturday, one of our young female teachers arrived at a station just in time to witness the aftermath of a growing problem in Japan; suicide by throwing oneself in front of a train.   I can’t imagine the horror of watching the station crew remove the body from the tracks and carry it out through the assembled crowd.

Japan has one of the highest suicide rates amongst industrially advanced countries with over 30 000 self inflicted deaths occurring every year since 1998.  Even the Japanese are becoming alarmed by the steep rise in the number of people taking their own lives.  Apparently, in this country, one is roughly five times as likely to die by one’s own hand as to be killed in a traffic accident!

Aokigahara woods, a secluded forest area at the foot of Mt. Fuji, has become infamous as a favourite suicide spot because of the number of bodies found hanging from trees and death by train has become so rampant that the Japanese railways now seek financial compensation from the families of jumpers because of the delays that are caused.

There are many reasons for the rising suicide rate but most are related to the recession that Japan has been experiencing in recent years.   Men account for a staggering 73% of those who take their own lives and many are businessmen experiencing financial difficulties and/or work related stress and exhaustion.  There is no doubt that this is a country of hard working, tired people.  We see the weariness on their faces every day.  Men, especially, work long hours and are under a great deal of pressure to succeed.  One of my private students, a fascinating young man who works for a trading company, often has to cancel his Saturday English lesson due to work commitments.  Last Friday, he worked through the night until 6:00 a.m. without even having supper because his company is preparing for important foreign visitors.  He came to class without having had any sleep because, like many others, learning English is not simply a hobby for him.  It’s required by employers as another means of getting ahead.

The unemployment rate here falls below that of most other developed countries but it has been rising since 1998 so some of those who take their own lives are amongst the jobless.  Family breakdown is another reason for suicide.  The divorce rate has climbed significantly as women have joined the workforce and found the means to free themselves from troubled marriages.  Perhaps the saddest statistic is the growing number of bullied students who are committing suicide.  Apparently bullying is rampant in Japanese schools.

Cultural issues come into play as well.  Japan is one of the few countries in the world where suicide is still considered an honourable act.  It has long been seen as a way to restore honour to one’s name, family or organization when one has failed in some way and Japanese literary tradition romanticizes it.  There is also a complete lack of religious prohibition against suicide here and there has long been a reluctance to discuss and deal with serious mental health and stress related issues.  It isn’t only good cold medications that are banned here.  Many of the cutting edge antidepressants that are readily available in western countries are not yet legal in Japan.

Until recently, a book entitled “The Perfect Suicide Manual” which gives explicit instructions on how to commit suicide by a wide variety of means, was consistently on the bestseller list and readily available.  It was finally designated a “harmful publication” after the suicide death of a 12-year-old girl.

As I enjoy the beauty and the rich history of this country, I’m reminded that there is a darker side and a high price being paid for the rapid advances that are being made.

It’s all part of the adventure

I’ve succumbed to my first Japanese cold.  Fortunately, I brought some echinacea with me and, with its help, I’m hoping that this doesn’t amount to much.  I don’t really have to use my teacher voice here as my biggest class has only eight students and the rooms are quite small but my throat was very sore at school yesterday which makes teaching rather difficult.  Today’s my day off so my voice will get a rest but I decided that I’d better go in search of lozenges and decongestants just in case they’re needed.  Back in Canada, that would be no big deal but here, where I don’t understand the language, it’s all part of the adventure.

My favourite cold medication is Sudafed but, since it contains a substance that is banned in Japan, we weren’t able to bring any with us.  There are three little drugstores in the shopping area surrounding our closest school so I went exploring to see what I could find.  In the first store I entered, I found some Halls nestled amongst the chewing gum!  There was only one flavour and since all the labeling except the brand name is in Japanese, I have no idea what it is but at least I know that it’s lozenges.  I discovered cold medications behind glass under the front counter.  I could tell that that’s what they were by the pictures and a few English words on some of the packages but there were so many kinds!  How would I choose?  What a delight to discover that the girl behind the counter spoke enough English to help me out!  She was able to ask about my symptoms, recommend the decongestant that she felt was best and explain the dosage.  As she rang up my purchases, she asked if I had a points card.  I didn’t have, of course, but she was able to explain that if I had one I’d receive points with every purchase and eventually earn a discount.  Since there was no cost involved in getting a card, she helped me fill out the application form and I now have a bright yellow Matsumoto KiYoshi point card!  Since we usually buy things like paper towel and toilet paper at the little drugstores, I’ll make sure I frequent that one from now on.  Not only will my purchases earn me points, but more importantly, I know that there’s someone on staff who speaks enough English to help me if I need it.  It may be crazy but carrying a points card from a local store is just one more little thing that makes me feel like I belong here!

Imperial Palace

After church yesterday we ventured into Tokyo again to visit the Imperial Palace, the home of Japan’s emperor and the imperial family.  The palace itself is closed to the public for all but two days each year but the east garden is a popular spot for strolling and picnicking.  We spent about an hour and a half wandering through the garden enjoying the sunshine and the peaceful surroundings.

The present palace occupies the site of the original Edo Castle from which the Tokugawa shogunate once ruled all Japan.  In its time, the castle was the largest in the world but virtually all that remains of the original structure is the massive moat and the imposing stone walls.

Japan’s government is similar to the British parliamentary system.  The emperor, considered divine until the close of World War II, has a role similar to that of Queen Elizabeth’s so in a sense, I suppose visiting the Imperial Palace is akin to visiting Buckingham Palace in London.  Despite the fact that the emperor no longer holds the power that his predecessors once did, he is a figure of enormous respect in Japan.  There was a definite police presence in the area and though admission to the east garden is free, visitors are issued a plastic token when they enter and return it to the entry kiosk when they leave to ensure that no one remains in the area after it closes at 5:00 p.m.

After leaving the garden, we strolled over to the elegant Nujibashi bridge where it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the actual imperial residence.  From there, rather than retracing our path back to the train station we arrived at, we walked to another nearby station and returned home by a different route, stopping on the way for supper.

Perhaps what surprised me most about yesterday’s outing was the ease with which we can wander around a place like downtown Tokyo!  The first couple of times that we went into the city seemed a bit intimidating and we were careful to keep track of where we’d been and how to get back to our station.  Now, we’re much less concerned, realizing that we can find our way back from anywhere and knowing that when we’re unsure about how to do that, it’s easy to find help.  The worst that can happen is that you get on the wrong train or one going in the opposite direction from what you had in mind.  If that does happen, all you have to do is get off at the next stop and go back!  As long as you don’t leave the stations, it doesn’t even cost anything.  The price of a trip depends entirely on where you enter the system and where you leave, not on how many detours you take along the way.

I’ve become a mass murderer!

I don’t like killing things. I’m more apt to capture a spider and release it outdoors than I am to kill it and I’ve been known to let ladybugs stay in the house all winter rather than putting them outside to freeze. Naturally, then, when I saw the first teeny, tiny critter flitting about the bathroom a few weeks ago, I was content to leave it be. Little did I realize that it would soon be joined by millions more! They’re very tiny so we haven’t been able to examine them closely but by the way they move, I suspect that they’re some kind of moth. We’re not sure if they’re hatching out someplace or finding their way in from outdoors. Either way, I’m not willing to share my space with them and have taken to squashing them with a vengeance! At first I did it daintily with a tissue making sure they didn’t leave their mini guts streaked across my bathroom wall but I’m past that now too. I squish them with bare hands if need be! Fortunately, they seem to like the dampness of the bathroom and most don’t venture out into the rest of the apartment. A few have been getting braver lately though and it will be much harder to control their population if they continue to spread. There seem to be more of them when it’s rainy which doesn’t bode well for the future as the real rainy season and the hot, humid summer are still out in front of us.

As if an infestation of critters hopping about the bathroom walls wasn’t enough, I discovered ants in the kitchen this morning! Not just one or two; about a bazillion! They’re little tiny ones, just like the ones that reside in my flower beds back home. Again, I don’t know where they came from but when I discovered them, they were busy exploring one corner of the room and hadn’t ventured further yet. I didn’t know what to do so I grabbed the can of roach spray that hadn’t been put to use yet and decided to see what it would do to ants. If it’s as effective on cockroaches as it is on ants, we have nothing to worry about! They shriveled and died almost instantly and I simply vacuumed up the carcasses! Amazingly, I also discovered that the roach spray has no smell. I was expecting something really nasty. It did leave a shiny residue on the nice clean floor that Richard just washed yesterday but I’ve decided to leave that for the moment in hopes that it will discourage any stragglers from trying to claim our territory. I also checked the cupboards and was happy to discover that they hadn’t found their way in there yet.

A moment of generosity

Often, when I see an elderly Japanese man on the street or on the train, I’m reminded of the fact that somewhere in this country there may be an old retired sailor who first crossed my path over fifty years ago.  I was three or four years old at the time, too young to actually remember the incident but I remember being told about it and I have the evidence that it happened in a storage trunk back home in Canada.   At that time, we lived in a waterfront house in Powell River on the coast of British Columbia.  It wasn’t unusual for crew members from boats in the harbour to be seen walking along our street.  One day as I was playing in the yard, my mother, who was watching from the kitchen window, saw a Japanese sailor enter the yard and give me something.  Concerned about what it might be, she came out to check and found me holding a tiny blue and white cigarette lighter in the shape of an oriental man.  It was out of fuel but my mother deemed it an inappropriate plaything for a little child so she took it away from me.  Realizing, however, that the gentleman meant it as a gift of kindness, she kept it for me and gave it to me when I was older telling me at that time where it had come from.  I have kept it ever since and have always appreciated the fact that my mother didn’t simply throw it out and allow the incident to be forgotten.  Who knows what impression that moment of generosity on the part of a sailor far from home and family had on the mind of a child and whether or not my interest in and love for Japan goes back, in some small way, to that incident?

One more performance

The new MIL advertising flyers came out yesterday and there I am on the front page!  That’s probably the beginning and the end of my modeling career but it’s fun while it lasts.

I’ll be appearing before a different kind of camera on Thursday.  My classes are being videotaped that day as that’s one of MIL’s methods of evaluating new teachers.  When I was first informed of this, I felt a little intimidated but then I reminded myself that I’ve been videoed lots of times before.  Somehow, though, I find it easier when I’m appearing as Vonga, the jungle girl, or crazy Aunt Abby!  I’m sure I’ll get through it just fine, though.  I’ll just remind myself that this is one more performance!

Earthquake!

Once again, we were awakened in the wee hours of the morning by the earth shaking beneath us! An earthquake with a magnitude of 6.8 struck offshore less than 100 miles from here and was followed about half an hour later by a second quake with a magnitude of 5.3. It was definitely our most prolonged and bumpy ride so far! It wasn’t enough to drag us from our beds, however, and we’re happy to report that we’re fine. We haven’t heard reports of any serious damage but apparently two people suffered minor injuries from falling furniture. An 18-year-old boy was hit when his stereo speakers fell onto his bed, and a 25-year-old man was hit by objects rattling off shelves.

Fortunately, we don’t have anything located in such a way that it could fall on us while we sleep. The clothing rod in our closet did collapse this morning, however! It’s a temporary rod that we rigged up because there wasn’t anywhere to hang clothes so it isn’t very stable and it was obviously shaken loose by the quake. It’s now back in place again.

Of somewhat greater concern is the fact that our gas has been off all day meaning no cooking and no hot water. As a safety feature, the gas to the apartment is supposed to shut off automatically in the case of an earthquake. This is the first time we’ve had a quake strong enough for that to happen. Normally, we should be able to go out to the gas meter on the side of the building and reset it but that hasn’t worked so we’re assuming that the gas is off to the whole building. Our instructions for such an occasion are to call the gas company and say “gas-ga-ki-te-nai” (my gas has not turned back on yet) but when Rich tried that he got a lengthy recording in Japanese. It probably explains the situation but, of course, we don’t understand a word of it! He then called the school and left a message for Miki, the gal who handles everything to do with housing. Hopefully she can phone the gas company for us and figure out what’s going on. In the meantime, we’re managing fine without it and if it’s not on by the time I get home from school this evening, I guess we’ll just have to go out for supper. Darn it anyway!

We fully expected to experience earthquakes while in Japan. In fact, I would have been disappointed if we hadn’t but we didn’t realize how frequent they would be. Apparently, however, 20% of the world’s earthquake activity happens here in Japan so I guess we shouldn’t be surprised. I’ve already lost count but I think this was probably our sixth! Of course, most are very minor. So far, most have happened during the night and the others while we were at school. We’ve yet to experience one while we’re outdoors on solid ground. I still hope to find out what that feels like.

All about food

We do most of our grocery shopping at Seiyu, one of the two department stores within easy walking distance of home.  Jusco actually has a bigger grocery department but, after shopping in the Sedgewick Coop for over thirty years, I don’t need big.  It’s actually easier to find what I need at Seiyu and produce tends to be cheaper there.  Since we eat lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, that’s an important consideration.  I’m quite proud to say that I haven’t used the can opener since we moved in over two months ago!  Okay, I have opened a couple of cans of tuna but they had pull off lids that didn’t require the can opener.

The grocery store is filled with things I don’t recognize, either because I can’t read the label or because they’re actually things I’ve never seen before.  Shopping for staples like sugar and vegetable oil were quite a challenge when we first arrived!   How do you know which white powder is sugar or which yellowish liquid is oil when you can’t read the label?  Pictures sometimes help.  For example, when I found the section of yellowish liquids sporting pictures of corn, sunflowers and canola in bloom, I knew I’d found what I was looking for and the picture of a cup and saucer on the bag of sugar was a clear giveaway that it wasn’t salt!

When we first arrived, I determined to try at least one new thing each time I shopped.  I’m not still doing that but as a result of keeping that up for the first few weeks, we’ve eaten new kinds of vegetables and fish as well as several different kinds of mushrooms.  I don’t always know what it is that I’m buying but so far, there hasn’t been anything we haven’t enjoyed.

We explored the possibility of doing some of our grocery shopping at Costco but decided against it.  As the crow flies, it’s probably not all that far from here and if we had a vehicle, it might be worth considering.  By public transit, however, it’s a costly trip involving two or three trains and either a bus or a long walk.  Since we’re only able to carry a limited amount and have very little storage space, shopping in bulk really doesn’t work here.  Instead, we shop locally every day or two.  In addition to Seiyu, we occasionally buy produce at one of the many little green grocers in the area and we also make good use of the wonderful bakery nearby.

Because of our work schedule, mealtimes are quite different from what we were accustomed to before coming here.  Breakfast usually consists of either cereal or eggs but occasionally cinnamon buns or bagels from the bakery find their way to our breakfast table.  Cereal choices are very limited.  Most of what’s available comes in very small packages and is both highly sweetened and very expensive.  We have, however, found a couple of choices that work for us.  We usually eat them with sliced banana or strawberries on top and we eat fresh pineapple with almost every breakfast because it’s both delicious and inexpensive.  A whole pineapple usually sells for 295 yen (approximately $2.95).  Some fruits are terribly expensive, however.  Apples, while large and delicious, are a rare treat as they sell for 97 to 148 yen apiece and we probably won’t eat cantaloupe while we’re here as it sometimes sells for as much as 3 000 yen!  Yes, that’s really $30!

Because we get home from work so late, we often eat supper at about 10:00 p.m.  Obviously, with a schedule like that, lunch at noon wouldn’t work well so we generally have a snack before leaving for work and eat lunch sometime in the middle of the afternoon.  It has to be something that can be eaten on the run because we often have only 5 or 10 minute breaks between classes.  I pack lunches for us six days a week; five schooldays as well as a lunch to eat after the church service on Sundays.  Lunches most often consist of sandwiches, raw veggies and fruit just as they did in Canada.  Bread, though not part of a traditional Japanese diet, has become quite common here in recent years.  A loaf of bread consists of either 4, 6 or 8 slices, though, depending on the thickness of each slice!  We buy the 8 slice loaf.  Each slice is large, square and about the thickness of sliced bread at home.  I don’t know what happens to the loaf end crusts as there aren’t ever any in the packages.  The bread is all white which is a big change for us as we ate 100% whole wheat at home.   It’s very tasty though and we’re quite enjoying it.  For variety, we occasionally take onigiri instead of sandwiches.  Onigiri are seaweed wrapped rice triangles with fish centres.  The grocery store also sells great pizza buns which make a nice change and we occasionally buy bento boxes for Sunday.  A bento is a complete lunch consisting of a variety of Japanese foods.

While some of our suppers are not much different from what we ate in Canada, most are at least quasi Japanese.  Though we do have potatoes occasionally, we usually eat either rice or noodles.  The most common types of noodles are soba and udon.  Soba are made of buckwheat and udon of wheat.   Our meat dishes include fish, beef, pork and chicken.  Since cooking is limited to the stove top or the little grilling drawer, many of our meals are some type of stir fry.  As already mentioned, we’ve tried a variety of fish.  With the exception of salmon, which is easy to identify, I’m not sure what the others are because I can’t read the labels!  So far, I haven’t bought anything with eyes looking back at me nor do I buy seafood with suckers attached!  I really like the almost paper thin sliced pork and beef that is so readily available.  Not only is it quick and easy to cook but it’s so tender and tasty.  They tend to do unusual things with eggs here.  I haven’t managed to convince Richard that dipping cooked beef into raw egg is actually very tasty but he does like the beef dish with egg added that I’ve made several times now.

Perhaps the oddest thing about grocery shopping here is the packaging; the sheer amount of it!  We don’t buy a lot of things like cookies but if we did, it wouldn’t be unusual for each cookie to be individually wrapped inside the larger package.  For someone who is used to buying five pound bags of carrots, three carrots per bag seems quite hilarious.  On the other hand, I’m going to miss the carrots when we leave.  They’re so sweet and tasty.

Of course, we’ve only been here two months so I’m sure as seasons change, so will some of the produce that’s available and the prices that it sells for.  We had always been told that living in Japan is terribly expensive so I decided to keep track of what we spent on groceries in April just to see for myself.   I was pleasantly surprised when I totaled it up, to learn that we’d spent less than 50 000 yen ($500)!  I’m quite sure that that’s not anymore than we were spending back in Sedgewick.   So, now that I know that we’re losing weight and not overspending, watch out bakery…  here I come!

Kamakura

Yesterday we took a day trip to Kamakura, about 50 km south of Tokyo.  We started the day by touring several Zen Buddhist temples.  Even though there were many people doing the same thing, the overall feeling was one of quiet calm.  Unlike the elaborate and ostentatious structures at Nikko, Kamakura’s temples are much simpler and largely constructed of dark, unpainted wood.  Some  structures even have thatched roofs.  Though some of the buildings and the surrounding grounds are open to the public, several of these are still in active use.   We could hear chanting coming from inside one of the them and everywhere we went, the smell of incense hung in the air.

Like Nikko, the temples of Kamakura are nestled in natural forest.  The trees, plants and moss reminded me of the B.C. coast.  We also enjoyed walking through stands of bamboo.  Everything was so green!

At the end of our temple walk we came to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu, the main Shinto shrine of Kamakura where the atmosphere was drastically different from the quiet repose of the Zen temples.  Located at one end of Kamakura’s main street, the brightly coloured shrine had a carnival feel.  Here we met up with the bulk of the Golden Week crowd visiting Kamakura.  Food stalls lined the walkway up to the shrine and tacky souvenirs abounded.  Crowds of people waited their turn to rush up the main steps of the shrine, toss their coins into the offering box, offer a quick prayer, clap and bow.  To an outsider, at least, there seemed to be little reverence or real religious significance to what they were doing.

After leaving the shrine, we walked to the main train station where we caught a bus to Kamakura’s most famous sight, the Daibutsu or Great Buddha.  We were packed into the bus like sardines as it crawled it’s way through the narrow and crowded streets but the wow factor was definitely worth the ride.  Cast in bronze in 1252, the statue stands 11.4 metres high and is said to weigh close to 850 tonnes.  Though it isn’t quite as big as the enormous Buddha that we saw in Nara three years ago, the weathered giant sitting out in the open  was quite something to see.  It was originally housed in a huge hall but that was washed away by a tsunami in 1495 and it has sat outside ever since.