If you’ve been following my blog for long, you know that many of my clothes come from second-hand stores, not because I can’t afford to buy new, but because I love thrifting and because one of my fashion goals is to be a more ethical shopper. The benefits of second-hand fashion are undeniable. Instead of going to the landfill, clothing that is no longer wanted finds new life in someone else’s closet. Textiles are reused and the harmful environmental impacts that result from producing new garments are reduced. Sadly, however, thrifting is not without ethical concerns.

One of the most common criticisms of thrift store shopping is related to supply and demand. If people like me, who can afford to buy our clothes new, instead choose to shop second-hand, will there be enough for those those in need? While this fear of “stealing from the poor” may be a good-hearted concern, it doesn’t accurately portray the situation. In reality, because we are such an affluent society, most second-hand stores receive far more in donations than they can possibly sell. The sad reality of thrifting is that while some of the clothes that go unsold are donated to women’s shelters and other charitable organizations, a large percentage end up in landfills or are shipped to third world countries.

While there is little danger of second-hand stores not having enough stock to meet the needs of low-income customers, thrifting as a fashion choice among the more well-to-do has led to a different problem. The “gentrification” of thrift stores, as this trend has become known, has led to some second-hand stores raising their prices making it more difficult for those who are in need to access clothing that they can afford. I do the vast majority of my thrift store shopping at two small shops in my local area where prices have been kept very low, but I have definitely noticed an increase in prices in the larger city stores that I visit occasionally. For example, three of the thrifted items that I bought in the past year were purchased in city second-hand stores for between $7.00 and $14.99. They would have cost $2.50 each at one of the shops in our small rural community.

The most valid criticism of thrift store shopping, however, is not directed at those of us who purchase clothing to add to or fill gaps in our own wardrobes. It zeroes in on those who frequently buy far more than they can reasonably use so that they can feature their “hauls” on TikTok and YouTube and on those entrepreneurial thrifters who buy quality items at thrift store prices and then resell them for more on popular apps like thredUp. For some, thrifting has become a lucrative business, but how ethical is it to buy donated items at not for profit shops like Goodwill and use them to turn a profit?

So, the question remains: Is thrifting truly an ethical way to shop or not? Personally, I think it is, especially if you live in an area where there is a high volume of second-hand clothing available. Thrifting is the recycling of the fashion world, but being an ethical thrifter requires mindfulness and discipline. It requires shopping with your practical needs in mind and not falling into the trap of overconsumption simply because the prices are so low. As a conscious shopper, you might also ask how you can strengthen or support the industry. This might look like volunteering your time and/or donating your own gently worn clothes to continue the cycle.