Superheroes

Today we went hiking with Superman, Wonder Woman, Batgirl and Bible Man!  Unlike our other Asian trips, this one isn’t only about seeing new places and experiencing new cultures.  We’re also here in Hong Kong to visit friends.  Unfortunately, Charles is away on business.  As luck would  have it, he left for Japan the day we arrived and won’t be back until later the day that we leave!  We are, however, enjoying our time with Tess and the children.

We spent the past two days, while the children were in school, on our own exploring Hong Kong and Kowloon.  More about that later.  Now that the weekend is here, we’re enjoying more time with the kids.  All four of them, seven year old Sebastian and five year old triplets, Jasper, Sela and Carys, love wearing costumes so off we went today with all of them in full disguise!  Such fun and also a wonderful way to keep track of four active children in busy public places.

Late this morning, we boarded a small ferry for Lamma Island, one of Hong Kong’s outer islands.  Arriving at the small community of Yung Shue Wan, we traipsed through it’s narrow streets and began our hike across the island.  Along the way, we enjoyed beautiful ocean views and stopped at the highest point for a rest and surprises from Mommy’s bag.  Reaching another tiny community, Sok Kwu Wan, we enjoyed a fantastic Chinese meal in an outdoor restaurant.  It was pleasantly warm and we had to remind ourselves that it’s still Feb.  The restaurant where we ate provides free passage back to the city on an even smaller ferry.  We sat on the upper deck and enjoyed watching the city come into view as we bounced our way over the waves. 

Now the children have had their baths and are listening to a story.  Everyone is in pyjamas and the girls are wearing angel wings!

Don’t go away!

Just a quick note to let everyone know that our internet is being disconnected tomorrow morning.  Our big adventure is almost over!  Now that we’ve said most of our good-byes, I’m excited about heading for Hong Kong the day after tomorrow and then back to Canada next week.  Once there, we’ll be visiting family in Vancouver for almost two weeks before finally making our way back to Alberta.  I’ll try to update the blog from time to time but it will probably be hit and miss for the next few weeks until we’re home and our internet service there is reconnected.  I’m sure by then I’ll have much to write about and many photos to share so please don’t go away!

Amazing generosity

If you were to visit Japan as a tourist and your only contact with the people was in public settings, you might easily come away with the impression that they are aloof or even unfriendly. On the street and on the trains they tend to be very reserved but we have been privileged to see beyond that outward appearance and have found them to be incredibly warm and generous. Never has that been more obvious than this, our final week here.

We knew that most of our students, especially the adults, were very appreciative of the job that we did as their teachers but the outpouring of gratitude that we experienced this week was overwhelming. For example, I taught a small class of older ladies for 85 minutes every Tuesday afternoon. When I arrived for class this week, they had planned a surprise farewell party for me. I was told to put away the textbook and relax. They provided cake and beverages, presented me with a beautiful gift and we spent the entire time in delightful conversation. Throughout the week many other students presented us with gifts and notes of appreciation.

Yesterday was our final day of teaching. I knew that saying good-bye to my playgroup would be particularly difficult. These are adorable preschoolers who attend class with a parent. They have been such fun to teach. At the end of every class we sing the Good-bye Song. I knew I’d have a very hard time getting through “good-bye dear friends, I’ll see you again”. When class came to a close, one little girl proudly presented me with a drawing, clearly meant to be me, and another student gave me a basket of flowers, one of several arrangements that now brighten the apartment. I was totally blown away, however, a few minutes later when a dear little boy stood in the corner of the reception area which was crowded with parents, students and staff and sang the first verse of Amazing Grace for me in perfect English! One of the other teacher’s commented afterward, “I dare you not to remember that for the rest of your life!”

My last class yesterday was another adult class. They asked a couple of weeks ago if they could take me out for dinner after our last class together. They actually ended up taking both Richard and I to a beautiful restaurant for a very traditional Japanese dinner. During class they each gave a short talk about what they appreciated about having me as their teacher this year and at dinner, they each presented me with a gift. Such amazing generosity!

Then there was church this morning. Unbelievable! Though many knew that today was our last Sunday, Pastor Steve announced it from the pulpit and had us come to the front for a special time of prayer. When service was over, we were surrounded by people thanking us and wishing us well. Many have become close friends over the past year, of course, but there were also some that we hardly know who came to shake our hands and say good-bye. Once again, we were showered with gifts!

We’ve been careful throughout the year not to buy too many mementos as we have limited space to carry things back but we weren’t counting on all the wonderful gifts! Fortunately, we came to Japan with less luggage than we were allowed and some of what we brought has worn out or been used up. Tomorrow, I begin packing and hope that I can fit everything in. If not, we’ll be shipping some things. One young couple in the church were wise enough to realize that we would have a lot to carry with us and told us that they would be mailing a gift to our home in Canada. Imagine our surprise and delight when she offered to take the things that we received today and mail them along with the gift that she was already planning to send! I gladly handed over all but the fragile ones. Again, such generosity! Is it any wonder that we’re having such a hard time saying good-bye?

Tecnologically advanced?

Japan has a reputation for being very advanced technologically but we were surprised to discover that, in terms of actual application, it really isn’t. Everyone has the latest cell phones and the tiniest digital cameras but we live in an older building with no high speed internet. It still astonishes me that we had better internet service in the middle of rural Alberta than we have an hour outside one of the biggest cities in the world. On the other hand, I guess we should be happy to have internet at all considering the fact that they’re only just putting cable TV into the building this week.

Perhaps most amazing to us, however, has been the lack of technology at our workplace. MIL has nine small schools spread throughout the northern part of Chiba Prefecture, about an hour east of Tokyo.  Teachers have no access to computers at school and all interoffice communication is done by fax instead of email!  The photocopiers and some of the CD players in our schools must be amongst the oldest on the planet.   I’m sure that there are workplaces in Japan that are much more technologically advanced than ours but from what we’ve heard, MIL is definitely not alone in it’s failure to join the world of modern technology.

Unexpected blessings

We’ve never been ones to simply attend church on Sunday.  We’ve always been fully involved but when we started attending Hope Church last March, we wondered how we’d be able to serve in a church where we didn’t speak the language of the majority of the people.  Not a problem, responded our very big God!   As it turned out, Smoky, a young American living and working in Japan and newly married to a Japanese wife, was at that very time, considering starting a monthly beginners English class that would meet after church once a month.  He welcomed our help with open arms.

Though we teach English five days a week, the beginners class at church quickly became one of the highlights of our month.  It has been so much fun!  Unlike school, where we’re required to use textbooks and teach the technicalities of English grammar, we focus entirely on pronunciation and basic conversational skills at church.   We eat lunch together and then have a simple lesson that allows the students to practice what they’re learning.  We make sure that there’s one English speaker at each table to help them and some of them are bilingual and can translate when necessary.  When the class first began last summer, many of the students were terribly nervous but Richard and a few of the young men in the class soon put them to ease with their crazy antics.  The class’s reputation quickly grew and it has continued to grow in number.

Yesterday the beginners English class held a farewell party for us.   As part of the lesson, Smoky included a number of useful phrases for saying good-bye and wishing someone well then each student got up and said a few words for us.  A couple of them had even prepared short speeches in advance.  We were totally overwhelmed!  Not only were their words so very kind and the feelings they expressed so genuine but we knew how difficult a task it was for most of them and we were so proud of how well they did.

img_3720Though the gift of their words was the most meaningful to us, they also had a beautiful farewell cake for us and showered us with flowers and gifts including Hope Church t-shirts.  We are so blessed!

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Who is tokyo5?

When Richard and I were hired to come to Japan to teach English, I started this blog to share our experience with family and friends. I also welcome anyone else who comes across it. Some people stop by once while others have become regular readers. One such person is tokyo5.

I’ve occasionally been asked who this person is. “Sometimes it seems like he’s trying keep tabs on what you say,” said one regular reader. “Doesn’t this annoy you?” she asked.

Tokyo5 is actually an American whose job brought him to Japan 18 years ago at the age of 20. He ended up marrying a Japanese girl and staying. They live in Tokyo and have three children, hence the pen name, tokyo5. Apparently, he rarely returns to the States. Though his comments often do come across as somewhat critical, I give him the benefit of the doubt. I don’t think he intends to be rude. In fact, he may not even realize that his comments sometimes sound that way. He’s just incredibly proud of his knowledge of the Japanese language and culture and very defensive about anything Japanese. He actually keeps me on my toes. I know that if I slip up and get my information wrong, he’ll be sure to let me know! His own blog is an interesting source of information about many things Japanese. You can find it at tokyo5.wordpress.com.

I am able to remove comments from my blog if I choose to do so but I’ve never done that. WordPress does a good job of weeding out spam so I’ve never had to deal with anything offensive and if a comment appears that seems somewhat suspicious, I’m notified and can accept or delete it before it’s published. A few of tokyo5’s comments have gone that route but I’ve never deleted any of them. The only time I was tempted to do so was when a negative sounding comment was directed toward another regular reader.  Even in that case, however, I decided not to interfere.  I welcome all legitimate comments including those that disagree with me. In fact, I wish more people would comment. Much of what I share here is my opinion or my own interpretation or reflection on what I’m experiencing so it may be different from someone else’s. That doesn’t make either one of us wrong but it does open the door to interesting discussion.

When I first started writing the blog, I thought that it would be a one year project but now that our time here is drawing to a close, I’ve decided to keep it going indefinitely. Not only does it fulfill my desire to continue writing but now that some of my Japanese friends are reading it, perhaps it will allow me to share life in Canada with them!

National Founding Day

The neighbourhood is very quiet today. At 7:45 this morning, the street wasn’t filled with noisy school children on their way to class. The garbage truck with it’s announcement blaring didn’t stop below our window a little later on to collect the trash and around 9:00 a.m. there was no huddle of mothers and preschoolers waiting for the kindergarten bus on the next corner. There are no machines digging up the streets anywhere nearby. Today is a national holiday known as National Founding Day.

Celebrated annually on February 11, this day was originally called Empire Day. Perhaps in order to bolster its own legitimacy, the holiday was an invention of the Meiji government. It commemorated the founding of the nation and the imperial line in 660 BC by the legendary first emperor, Jimmu. Abolished after World War II because of its association with the imperial system, the holiday was resurrected in 1966 as National Founding Day but was stripped of any overt references to the Emperor. It is Japan’s most controversial holiday often sparking protest rallies held by those who claim that it is unconstitutional because it links the country’s foundation with the imperial institution.  I assume that they look more favourably upon Constitution Memorial Day on May 3.  Established in 1948, that holiday celebrates the day on which the current Japanese constitution came into effect one year earlier.

February 11 is, at best, a subdued celebration with few overt expressions of national pride or patriotism.  In fact, for most Japanese, it appears to be nothing more than a day off work or school. Most of my adult students weren’t even able to tell me why it’s a holiday. Some guessed that it might be the emperor’s birthday which is actually celebrated on December 23 while others surmised that it had something to do with Japan becoming a country.  For us, it’s a day like any other and we’ll soon be off to school as usual.

Language limitations?

Before we came to Japan, we fully intended to take some Japanese lessons once we settled in. We thought that a basic knowledge of the language would be necessary in order to cope with everyday life. While there have been occasions when it would have been helpful, we quickly came to the realization that knowing Japanese wasn’t essential and decided that our time would be better spent in other ways. If we had planned to stay longer than a year or if we thought that we would have any opportunity to continue using the language once we returned to Alberta, we probably would have taken some lessons but we also realize that old brains like ours don’t absorb new languages easily and it would take much longer than a year to develop any level of fluency.

We’ve learned a few useful words and phrases along the way as well as some that are just plain fun. The latest is saiko. According to the dictionary, it means highest or maximum but it can be used in the same way that we commonly use the English word awesome, as in “How are you?” “I’m awesome!” The reason we’re having so much fun with it is the fact that it’s pronounced exactly like the English word psycho. So, imagine for a moment the quizzical looks I’ll get if, back in Canada, someone asks “How are you?” and I respond “I’m saiko!”

Most of our fellow teachers here are the age of our children or younger and many have studied some Japanese before they arrive in the country. One of them, a somewhat immature and self-absorbed young lady, hopes to become completely fluent in the language and work as a translator someday. She takes advantage of every opportunity to point out to anyone and everyone that she speaks Japanese and she clearly looks down on anyone who doesn’t. She actually told Richard some time ago that we wouldn’t have any opportunity to get to know any Japanese people if we didn’t make an effort to learn the language. She’d be shocked to learn how difficult it’s going to be for us to leave this country because, after just one year, it means saying good-bye to so many dear friends and how hopeful we are that we’ll be able to come back and visit them someday!

We spent the past two Sunday afternoons and evenings visiting in Japanese homes. Last week we enjoyed a wonderful visit with Seiko, Atsuo and their eight month old son, Ayumu. The fact that we don’t speak Japanese and Atsuo doesn’t speak English hardly interfered at all and has not hindered us from developing a very special relationship with this young couple. Ayumu is our “adopted” grandson and it warms my heart every time I hear Seiko refer to us as Granma and Granpa!

Yesterday we visited Yoko and Yoshinori, a couple who are almost the same age as we are. Yoshinori is a journalist who spent much of his career as a foreign correspondent so they spent many years living and raising their children in London, Mexico City and the United States and they both speak English quite fluently.

Of course, being a part of a church family here has given us the opportunity to get to know Japanese people and enter into their lives in a way that we wouldn’t have otherwise. We won’t be here to see Yugo and Minako’s new baby when it arrives in July or to watch Dave and Yuki exchange marriage vows but it’s been a delight to share in their excitement as they’ve told us of these upcoming events. In fact, it’s been absolutely saiko!

Setsubun

Today is Setsubun, in my opinion probably the most unusual day on the Japanese calendar. Because of it’s original association with the Lunar New Year, it is thought of as a new beginning, a time to drive away evil spirits and prepare the home for the year to come. This is done by opening the windows and throwing roasted soybeans both inside and outside the home while shouting “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” which loosely translates as “Evil spirits out. Good luck in”. As part of bringing in the good luck, it is then customary to pick up the beans and eat one for each year of your life. In recent years, some families have chosen to use peanuts instead of soybeans. Some people wear devil’s masks while performing this ritual while others hang small decorations made of holly and sardine heads over the entrances to their homes to discourage the evil spirits from reentering once they’ve been driven out.

Setsubun is also celebrated at Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines throughout the country where celebrities are often invited to assist the priests by scattering the beans.

In keeping with the theme of new beginnings, Setsubun is also considered the last day of winter even though my students assure me that the weather won’t change significantly for awhile yet. Though there’s a bit of warmth in this evening’s breeze, the weather forecast seems to concur.

There are some variations in how Setsubun is celebrated in different regions of the country. For example, it has long been customary in the Kansai area to eat uncut sushi rolls on Setsubun while facing the lucky compass direction for that year, as determined by it’s zodaic symbol. Through the marketing efforts of supermarkets and convenience stores, this tradition seems to have spread to other parts of the country. I saw these rolls being sold in several spots on my way to and from work today. In front of the convenience store close to the school where I taught today, they were being sold by two young men who were dressed in red and wearing devil masks.

There may be some Japanese traditions that I’d be willing to adopt but I don’t think this will be one of them. While I most definitely believe in the existence of both good and evil in the spiritual realm, I don’t think I’ll ever put my faith in soybeans! It sure is fascinating to learn about these unusual customs though.